Nepal: A journey between worlds. Encounters with open, warm-hearted people. Respect and joy toward tourists who see the beauty of the country beyond the poverty and destruction and know how to appreciate it. A country that has everything a world traveler and adventurer could wish for.
Nepal: Temples in Kathmandu
When Rustham sets out on a tour of “his” city with his guests, he brings an umbrella. “The monsoon is just coming to an end,” he grins, “so you never know.” Anyone who’s experienced their first monsoon rain knows that a classic German rain jacket is practically useless. Within seconds, water pools in the streets and the raindrops seem to come from every direction. But today it’s hot in Kathmandu. The air is stagnant in the valley basin; the smog from the exhaust fumes of countless mopeds, old cars, and rickety trucks hangs like a bell jar over Nepal’s capital. By now, at the very latest, many are wondering why they should spend part of their vacation here of all places. Yet Kathmandu—just like the rest of the country—is unique. A melting pot of religions, cultures, and people.
This isn’t the first time I’ve been here, either. As the plane approaches the city, a breathtaking view of the valley’s green hills unfolds; on the distant horizon, the snow-capped peaks of the 8,000-meter mountains are faintly visible. A rainbow arches over the rooftops, seeming to serve as both a welcome sign and a glimmer of hope for those arriving. Tourists in hiking gear from the West and locals who work in the Emirates to support their families living here stream out of the plane. Rustham is already waiting for us, draping the obligatory white scarf “for a safe journey” around our necks.
Kathmandu: noisy, chaotic, and dirty
This city is loud, chaotic, and dirty. And yet it exudes a subtle charm, an allure that hardly any visitor to Kathmandu can resist. For newcomers to one of Asia’s poorest countries, the first few minutes can certainly be a bit of a shock. I, on the other hand, revel in the sights that greet me along the roadside: Vendors on rickety bicycles offer bananas by the kilo, rickshaw drivers vie for customers, and a motley mix of women in colorful attire, monks in red robes, and children in school uniforms line the street. In the distance, I can also make out Swayambunath, one of the most significant Buddhist stupas, perched on a hill in the middle of the city.
Like almost all tourists, we also stay in Thamel, the bustling commercial district. The alleys are narrow, with vendor after vendor selling knitwear, trekking gear, teas, silk scarves, and handicrafts. I also love this hustle and bustle, the open-hearted people, and the crammed-full alleys. As you wander through this maze, you lose track of time. It’s a small, lively, and quirky world of its own that awaits visitors here. As a self-confessed Kathmandu fan, I naturally end up at Pilgrim’s—arguably the most exciting and famous bookstore in the world—and enjoy my Italian cappuccino at the German bakery.
To enjoy some lassi, a yogurt-based drink, we head to Bhaktapur, where a Tibetan café overlooking the bustling Durbar Square is said to serve the best. Along with Patan, this suburb of the capital is one of the country’s most famous cultural landmarks.
Temples, Monkeys, and Pilgrims
Wafts of smoke hang in the air. At the edge of the …, bodies wrapped in cloth and adorned with flowers are cremated on large pyres. The entire family then gathers for this ritual. For the observer, the rite at Pashupatinath is a mixture of fascination and revulsion. On the way to the temples, I buy a necklace made of rudraksha seeds. It’s said to ward off illness and bring good luck. On Swayambunath Hill, monkeys are also frolicking, waiting for an opportunity to snatch something edible. Vendors try to sell prayer wheels, singing bowls, and bracelets featuring Buddha’s eyes, and amid the worshippers, tourists, and women begging with babies in their arms, the view of the city opens up again and again.
Bodnath, the Stupa with the Buddha's Eyes
But my favorite place is Bodnath. The stupa—arguably the most famous one—symbolizes the country like no other place. Even the first few steps around the imposing … put me in an almost meditative mood. The scent of incense wafts through the air, mingling with the murmurs of the monks praying in the monastery; hundreds of prayer flags flutter in the wind; and from the countless small shops comes the sound of “Om mani padme om”—the mantra without which nothing in Nepal seems to function. The meditative chant lodges itself in your mind and accompanies your walk around the stupa, always clockwise.
The eyes of the Buddha are everywhere, following you no matter where you stand. Eventually, you no longer know where the beginning and the end are. “The infinite loop,” Rustam would say. The symbols of Buddhism never let you go in this country—whether you want them to or not.
Trekking in Nepal: Leeches and Annapurna
Rain. Rain from above, from the side, and from below? What was coming up from the ground, however, weren’t raindrops, but almost cute little leeches—“leaches,” as our hiking guide says with a laugh—and he helps us remove the bloodsuckers: “They come with the rain.” In no time, my originally white hiking socks are covered in bloodstains. By now, at the very latest, you know why you’re supposed to tuck your pants into your socks. We then slowly begin our ascent through a steamy, blooming, and pristine rainforest. It soon becomes impossible to tell whether the wetness comes from the sweat of exertion or the endless rain.
But eventually we reached the village…. The alleys are deserted. A cheerful, laughing Nepali woman then waves us into her little guesthouse. On the porch, covered with plastic sheeting, she serves us hot chai, clearly amused by the hiking-crazy tourists in rain capes—soaking wet and yet full of motivation to explore the magnificent Annapurna Range on foot. At that moment, you couldn’t imagine anything better!
Arrival at Basanta Lodge. A few tentative rays of sunshine pierce through the clouds, a blue ribbon pushes its way through and clears the view. This fabulous view of the entire Annapurna Range. It is a sight that takes your breath away. The infinite dignity and power of these highest mountains on earth leave us speechless. While we sweat in the subtropical climate, the peaks trapped in eternal ice and snow appear like messengers from another world.
Tigers in Chitwan National Park
The road winds through a narrow valley. On one side, it’s bordered by high rock faces with water flowing over them; on the other, a deep gorge through which the Narayani River meanders. It’s also the main thoroughfare to India. Colorfully decorated trucks, flatbed trucks loaded with goats, buses full of people—and we’re right in the middle of it all. Right up against the slope stand makeshift wooden shacks where dhal and momos are offered to travelers over open fires. Little children scamper around among them—a nightmare for our German sense of social welfare. In daring passing maneuvers, our sensationally talented young driver tries to make a bit more speed—but in the end, it doesn’t really work. So patience and composure are called for here. But eventually we get past this, the valley is behind us, and we finally reach Chitwan National Park.
To get this out of the way: We didn’t see any tigers—just a fresh paw print on the clay-covered path. But we discovered so much more in this very pristine and rarely visited national park. Asian rhinos, sluggish crocodiles, bathing elephants (who enjoy giving us a shower as well), and an enchanting landscape that, much like the slowly meandering river, sets the pace and mindset of life and the people here.
What Else Nepal Has to Offer
There is so much I could write about this wild and serene, beautiful and challenging country. About Manaslu, which towers over the small mountain town of Gorkha like a mighty guardian. About Pokhara, that cozy little town on Lake Phewa, teeming with adventure seekers from all over the world; about the magnificent Annapurna massif, which offers sensational views every day. And about the many little moments along the way. And about the people who live here with conviction, despite all adversity.
In Nepal, you experience a rollercoaster of emotions. Between enthusiasm and self-consciousness, humility and fascination, this small country nestled among the highest mountains on earth has once again managed to captivate me. And it certainly won't be the last time.
If you'd like to explore Nepal on your own, you'll find some great ideas in our private tour packages. Or simply reach out to us using the contact form.
©Susanne Pinn
