In Vietnam, people don't talk about their feelings; they convey them through food, writes Kim Thúy in the introduction to an unusual cookbook. Expressing their friendliness, the Vietnamese therefore make every effort to introduce us to their (food) culture.
If there's one thing the Vietnamese excel at, it's presenting their food and produce to travelers. But you shouldn't be squeamish—especially when visiting a local market. You'll find everything here, from vegetables and all kinds of creatures to stalls selling dried fish and food stalls—the Vietnamese love food.
Grilled cockroaches and grasshoppers
And all sorts of rather exotic and, to our palates, rather unappetizing things can be found here. Our first visit to a Vietnamese market therefore puts our Western sensibilities to the test. From grilled cockroaches and grasshoppers to pickled maggots and small animals (which we keep as pets) and which are considered "normal" meat here. I once read that in Vietnam, vegetarians are people who eat "no dogs, no cats, no rats" – true to the motto: "You are what you eat"....
Sucking on honeycomb, we continue on toward Hoi An. It's time we learned how to prepare something ourselves using ingredients native to Vietnam, says our guide Ngan with a smile. And since we'll be eating it afterwards, we have to earn it. So we hop on our bikes and ride across a lagoon landscape to Herb Village Tra Que, a place known for its vegetable cultivation. No wonder, because "Tra Que" means "cinnamon tea" and takes its name from the aromas of this area. A tranquil and fragrant village, it is run as a kind of non-profit farm, where the people who live there are given a piece of land to cultivate.
Over 40 varieties of vegetables and herbs are grown here. Even from a distance, our sense of smell is challenged: the scent of mint and basil fills our nostrils, mixed with sweet and exotic nuances wafting over from the vegetable and herb gardens. Equipped with chef's hats and aprons, a cheerful chef introduces us to the secrets of Vietnamese cuisine. And so we create bánh xèo, a type of pancake filled with various vegetables, shrimp, and chicken, which tastes delicious!
Start the day with phở
The magic elixir is called phở: a steaming soup with chicken, rice noodles, coriander, lemongrass, and other spices. A bowl of phở guarantees a good start to the day and is mainly enjoyed by Vietnamese people for breakfast, explains Ngan. The best phở can be found in one of the numerous food stalls that line the streets in cities. In Saigon's old town, Ngan leads us through winding, labyrinthine alleys, between hundreds of honking motor scooters, into a backyard. Curious glances follow the Westerners, who nevertheless don't miss the opportunity to slurp their noodle soup here on red plastic chairs in an operating room-like space.
Follow your nose
Afterwards, would you like another coffee, Ngang asks? It is poured at the table using a type of metal attachment on the cup, from which it drips into sweet condensed milk.
And if you like something a little more exotic, try egg coffee (CÀ PHÊ TRỨNG) – created at a time when milk was scarce and was stretched with egg yolk: thick, sweet, and flavorful. A willingness to experiment and an open mind and palate – anyone traveling to Vietnam with these qualities is sure to be amazed, enjoy themselves, and experience something unusual! With this in mind... bon appétit! Want to travel but don't know where to go? Then let our travel reports, special accommodations, ideas, and specials inspire you.
