A Mysterious Encounter with Cuba
"And so this land of blood and laughter stands before us like a child laughing loudly in the bright sunshine, full of wild innocence, showing us how sated and weak we have all become."
Her name was Dolores. She was small, white, and Russian. If you're now thinking that I'm starting my tribute to Cuba with a fiery
historia de amor de fuego, I'm afraid I have to disappoint you—although a love story did emerge from her: for an island in the Caribbean Sea. Dolores was a rental car that accompanied us through Cuba for a few weeks and initially presented us with a puzzle at the rental company in Varadero – not the first one Cuba would give us: How were we, two fun-loving women in their prime, supposed to stow our luggage in this shoebox?
Right from the first few kilometers, we sensed that we weren’t exactly your average travelers. A blonde and a redhead on a self-drive tour through Cuba? But we wanted to experience and feel every facet of this country: the people and salsa, rum and palm-fringed beaches, giant crabs and cocoa. A journey through time and a hurricane later, we finally knew. What it was that makes this island so special and unique. Why it’s impossible to resist.
Traveling Through Cuba with Dolores
There were no road signs. Our guide was the locals—“hola chicas”—gesturing in the right direction with broad grins on their faces and a torrent of Spanish words (the meaning of which I could only guess at with my rather limited knowledge of the language). So it was like a Sunday afternoon drive. Chugging along at a leisurely pace, enjoying the countryside, the air, and the encounters, weaving through ox carts, horse-drawn carriages, and bicycles. And that’s exactly what life is like in Cuba. It lets you slow down your inner engine, calmly endure roads full of potholes, and think back to the toy cars of your childhood.
People in Cuba have time on their hands. They are all about music and joie de vivre; they throw around swear words and revere their heroes. Honor, pride, and dignity are not personal virtues, but are harnessed by the government in its struggle against imperialist enemies. We also see a photo of Che on almost every street corner, sometimes alongside Fidel Castro or even Cienfuegos, who is less well-known in the Western world but all the more famous in Cuba. These men were once the leading fighters against the regime of the dictator Batista. But only Castro remained. Yet that, too, is Cuba.
This country functions so differently from anything we know. Cuba is also full of secrets and contradictions. It’s challenging, elusive, and yet inviting. Self-assured and innocent. Life here is discordant and yet harmonious. All of this is what defines this country. It makes us love it like a aloof beauty who rears up and resists, yet whose charm is impossible to resist. Cuba is so much more than majestic royal palms, vast sugarcane fields, “viva la revolución,” and salsa. Here, alongside the Castros, serenity and a zest for life reign supreme.
Traveling with All Your Senses
We explored this island with our little Dolores. We passed by vibrant Caribbean colors under a blazing sun and dilapidated colonial buildings that have nonetheless lost none of their charm. We saw pristine rainforest in Humboldt National Park, swam at Salto del Caburni in the Gran Parque Natural de Collantes, breathed in the air heavy with the scent of cocoa beans in Baracoa, enjoyed a delicious mojito at “El Floridita,” the bar where Hemingway did the same, and danced to rousing rhythms in Trinidad near the cathedral on the Plaza Mayor. Our senses therefore cried out for us to stop and pause. We wanted to feel the magic.
There's an air of mystery surrounding Cuba. You don't have to understand everything about this island. But you'll love it.
If you'd like to explore Cuba on your own with a rental car, you'll find great ideas in our camper and rental car tours. Or simply write to us using the contact form.
